What kind of control cables go on my boat? The boat has a [brand name] engine.
There are several ways to determine this information by noting:
a. appearance of the cable
b. part number of the cable
c. engine(s) and controls on which cable is used
Take a look at the existing cable.
Usually the part number is stamped in white on the existing cable's plastic outer casing.
If you can't locate it or read the part number, check to see what brand of control and brand/year of engine is on the boat now.
With this information, you can determine which cable you need from identification/application charts in this catalog. These charts will help you identify cables by appearance, part number, control type and engine brand/type.
In most cases, Teleflex offers three performance grades, called Standard, Midrange and Premium. All three grades meet/exceed industry requirements.
For maximum performance, we recommend our Premium TFXTREME® cables.
Once the part number of the replacement control cable(s) is(are) known, measure the one(s) you have now if at all possible.
The most frequent reason for the return of a new cable is that the incorrect length was ordered.
If you are not sure what to do, please contact Teleflex Tech Support.
Can I use a dual function control in a dual station boat?
No. It is not recommended. Use of dual function controls for twin stations can result in a binding problem and is a complex, difficult installation in the best circumstances.
Instead, use one single function dual lever control per engine at each station. We have several from which to choose, but recommend the CH5600P — a state-of-the-art mechanical control specifically designed to work smoothly in twin station boats.
Single function controls for twin stations are set up with the cables "in series". This means that each cable is run from one lever of an upper station control to the corresponding lever of the lower station control. Another cable is then run from the lower station control to the engine. When the cables are properly connected, moving the levers at one station will move the levers at the other station in addition to actuating throttle and shift.
Shift detents should be used in the lower station control(s) (closest to the engine) only. Do not install shift detents in the second station control.
When mechanical controls are used in two stations, we always recommend TFXTREME® cables, which are also specifically designed to work smoothly in twin station applications. When combined with CH5600 controls, these cables give you superior smoothness and response. Because of their unique construction, these cables have very little backlash, so a high-quality synchronization of the control head lever position and feel at each station (including shift detents) is possible.
If a mechanical control system cannot deliver acceptable feel or response, upgrade to an electronic control system. Teleflex has several options, ranging from the relatively simple KE-4a system to the fully-featured i6000 family of controls.
If you are not sure what to do, please contact Teleflex Tech Support.
I want to add a station to my boat. What do I need to do?
First determine the type of steering and control systems on your boat now. That will help you identify the options available to you.
Measure the distance between stations and approximately how you would route the cables from one station to another.
This will give you a starting point as to which components you may need and how long any cables might be.
Generally speaking, if the run between stations is relatively short and uncomplicated, mechanical controls will do.
(Please see previous FAQ for information about which kind of control is recommended and general installation parameters).
If the run between stations is long or complex or there are more than two stations on the boat, mechanical controls are not recommended.
Use an electronic control system instead. (Please see previous FAQ for options.) For twin-station steering there is only one mechanical option: Big-T®. While this is an excellent system, it is old technology.
SeaStar® hydraulic steering is recommended, which offers superior steering and allows for connection of autopilots and numerous other system enhancements.
When adding a station, a substantial amount of components will be required no matter which types of systems are selected.
If the boat has mechanical steering and controls, this is a good time to consider upgrading to SeaStar hydraulic steering and the KE or i6000 family of electronic controls.
If you are not sure what to do, please contact Teleflex Tech Support.
My control used to work fine, but now one lever is hard to move. What should I do to fix this?
First determine where the problem lies. There are three possible trouble areas: the control, the cable, and the throttle or transmission connection. By isolating these one at a time, you will find the problem. Engine(s) must be OFF when performing these checks:
a. Disconnect the cable at the throttle or transmission attachment point. Move the throttle or transmission arm through its arc to be certain there is no restriction or binding. If the arm is stiff or binding, clean and lubricate moving parts. If this does not solve the problem, make the appropriate repairs. Generally, the force required to move a throttle or shift arm should be no more than 5-10 pounds.
b. With the cable disconnected at the engine end, try to move the control lever. If it moves freely, the problem was the throttle/transmission arm. If the control handle is still hard to operate, disconnect the cable from the control. If the lever operates smoothly, the control cable needs replacement. If the lever is still hard to move, lubricate the lever pivot point in the control with penetrating oil and a light grease.
c. If the problem is with a throttle lever, you may have a cable brake installed to limit cable feedback to the handle. If this is the case, loosen or remove the brake. If throttle lever creep back is a problem on the boat, you should consider installing a Teleflex CH5600 SLT control. This unit will stop cable creep without sacrificing a smooth feel.
How does the CH5600 Work?
Each control lever has both a self-locking and direct drive lever arm. The cable from the engine throttle directly to the control should be connected to the control’s self-locking lever arm. The cable from the transmission should only be connected to the control’s direct-drive lever arm. Cables between stations should only be connected to the direct drive lever arms of those controls.
CH5600 SLT-two types of lever arms:
Direct Drive Lever Arm:
When a cable from the transmission or a “slave station” is connected to the direct-drive arm, it will allow the control lever to be moved from another station. Cables from the main station to any additional stations must be attached to direct drive arms on those stations.
Self-Locking Lever Arm
When a cable from the throttle is connected to the self-locking arm (black in color), it will only move if the lever is moved; engine vibration and return spring feed back will not move the control lever. Only throttle cables routed directly from the engine to the control should be connected to self-locking lever arms.
How do I Set-up the CH5600?
Throttle/Shift Configuration:
Each SLT can be configured for Throttle and Shift, Twin Throttle or Twin Shift, simply by screwing in the appropriate throttle stops, detents and knobs that come with the control. Shift cables must always be connected to the direct drive arm, regardless of which control station.
Single & Dual Station Use:
The SLT can be used in Single or Twin Station applications. Dual station setups must only utilize the Self-Locking feature, shift detents and throttle stops for throttle at the station whose cables are directly connected to the engine. All cables from the “master” control to the other station(s) must be connected to the direct drive arms of secondary control(s), which must not have active throttle friction or shift detents. Multiple stations require that the controls be hooked in series if the Self-Locking feature is used.
How do I know which control cable I need?
In order to determine that, you need to know what brand(s) of engine and control head are on the boat. Mercury/Mariner/Force and OMC/Johnson/Evinrude engines usually require an “OEM type” cable when using those engine makers’ control heads. OEM type cables have special end fittings designed to connect to the control and engine with minimal hard ware. Generally, all other engines and controls use a “universal” 3300/33C type control cable. Universal cables have 10-32 threaded ends and often require extra hardware to connect to the engine and control.
Contact the engine manufacturer if you need details on the hookup. Diesels and twin station vessels may use larger diameter (4300/43 or 6400/64 type) universal cables; 4300/43 type cables have 1/4-28 threaded ends and 6400/64 cables have 5/16-24 threaded ends. Refer to the “Control Cables” section of this catalog for more information.
How do I know which control cable length I need?
This depends on two things: a. Are you doing a first-time control cable installation?
Outboards: Measure from control along un obstructed cable routing to center of outboard. Add two feet to allow for loop which provides unrestricted engine movement. Round up to next whole foot and order that length cable(s). Stern Drives and Inboards: Measure from control along unobstructed cable routing to shift and/or throttle connection. Round this dimension off to the next whole foot and order that length of cable.
b. Are you replacing an existing cable? Measure the Existing Cable as Follows: Measure the cable from tip to tip in inches, and round up to next even foot. Order that length cable.
What kind of ongoing maintenance do cables need? Can they be repaired?
We suggest the following periodic maintenance be performed at least twice a season:
a. Check overall operation for proper gear engagement, full and idle throttle, and overall feel.
b. Visually inspect control head, cable as well as engine and transmission cable attachment points for proper tightness of fasteners, correct operation of all moving parts, worn or broken items, cable chafing or misalignment, etc.
c. Do not lubricate core wire (moving wire inside the casing). If the cable operates stiffly, replace it.
d. Keep cable ends dirt and corrosion free.
e. Lubricate pivot points and sliding parts of the cable with a good quality water-resistant grease.
When to replace a cable or connection hardware:
a. Excessive free play felt at the control even after all cable connections have been verified as in good working order.
b. Visual inspection shows chafing, breakage or bent, loose or worn parts.
Never attempt to repair a cable. Always replace a malfunctioning cable. A cable cannot be properly repaired in the field and must always be replaced as an assembly. Attempting to repair a cable can resulting control system failure, leading to personal injury
Are replacement gears available for Teleflex helms?
No. Teleflex does not offer repair parts for any steering helms or cables. All helms and cables must be replaced as units. If the helm in question is within our 2-year warranty period, we will authorize a free replacement helm (not including labor). At tempting to repair a helm will void the warranty and can lead to steering failure, which may result in personal injury and property damage.
How do I know which length steering cable I need?
The cable part number and length can usually be found about 2 feet from the helm connection, stamped into the plastic conduit (exterior jacket or casing). If you can't locate/read it, proceed to step a:
a. Is the cable you are replacing rotary (spiral wrapped black core wire sticks out at helm end of cable) or rack and pinion (cable has long metal housing with rack [flat] gear inside)?
Measure the Existing Cable as Follows: Measure the cable’s plastic jacket (casing)in inches.
If rotary, add 18”, and round up to the next foot. If rack & pinion, add 30” and round up to the next foot.
Order that length cable.
b. Are you doing a first-time steering cable installation?
Measure Cable Routing Path in Boat as Follows:
A = Center line of wheel to gunwale (inches),
B = Dash to transom (inches),
C = Gunwale to cable connection at centered tiller (inches). For Tilt Tube Mounting, add A, B & C + 6”, then round up to the next whole foot. Order that length cable. For Transom/ Splash-well Stringer Support Mounting, add A, B & C, then subtract 6” and round up to the next whole foot.
Order that length of cable.
What do I need in order to add another steering station to my boat?
Teleflex Big-T is the only mechanical steering system with a version designed for dual station boats. This specialized product cannot be added on to any existing steering system. Sea-Star hydraulic steering is the preferred choice for dual station boats.
NOTE: Please see the Big-T Dual Station product pages, in the catalog. The cable for this system is special-order and non-returnable, so please take extra care when measuring.
I’m replacing a Teleflex rack & pinion cable in a 1985 boat. I ordered an SSC134 “The Rack” cable and it won’t connect to the helm. What’s the problem?
Note the old cable’s rack housing color. It is probably black or gray, meaning that the old cable is a “The Rack (older)” model (1984-2001). If the rack housing is green, it may be a TR188 model (1975-86). This is a Teleflex system, but the helm will not bolt up to the new SSC134 cable. Replace the helm and bezel kit with 1996-date “The Rack” versions.
NOTE: Please see The Rack Stern Drive product pages, earlier in this catalog. Replacement cables only for 1984-2001 Teleflex Rack systems are available (part number SSC124XX).
I just bought a steering kit and I would like to add a friction screw to the system, but none was included with the kit. What should I do?
Friction adjustment is not a standard item in our steering kits and is not available for Rotary Systems. If you have installed a non-tilt “Back Mount RackHelm,” order Friction Kit part number 3953114P.
NOTE: If you have any NFB system (Rack or Rotary), a friction adjustment device is not required or recommended
I just bought a steering kit and I would like the steering shaft to be at an angle to the dash. The bezel kit included in the steering kit only allows a perpendicular mount. Which parts do I need?
The standard Bezel (mount) Kit included with the steering system allows the helm to be installed at 90° (perpendicular) to the surface of the dash. Optional Bezel Kits for Rotary Steering systems provide the ability to mount the helm at 20° from perpendicular. The Rack and Pinion system uses “Wedge Kits” that provide 10° and 20° angles. For Rotary Steering (Safe-T, NFB Safe-T II or 4.2), order 20° Bezel Kit part number SB27483P. For Rack and Pinion Steering (NFB, Non-NFB, and Pro Rack), order: 10° Wedge Kit part number SB27448P or 20° Wedge Kit part number SB27449P
I need to replace the steering system on my boat, but I looked at the back of the helm and saw it was not made by Teleflex. I want to install a Teleflex system, but how do I know which one I should get?
Generally, replace rotary with rotary, rack & pinion with rack & pinion and hydraulic with hydraulic.
Rotary helm gearboxes are round in shape. Rack & pinion helms are tubular and connect to a long, thin metal rack housing. The following is a brief cross reference for the most popular non-Teleflex systems:
Morse Command 290 Rotary: use Teleflex Safe-T QC for power-assisted or NFB 4.2 Rotary for non-power-assisted. (Some Morse Command 290 products are still available.)
Morse Command 200 Rack: use Teleflex Back Mount Rack for power-assisted or NFB Rack for non-power-assisted.
Morse Command 2 Rotary: use Teleflex HPS or Big-T for power-assisted or NFB Safe-T II or 4.2 for non-power-assisted.
A comprehensive steering interchange listing (with illustrations of helms and cables) for
Teleflex, Morse and other brands begins on page 12 of this catalog
I need a link arm to connect the steering cable output ram to the tiller of my outboard. Can I get the link arm from Teleflex?
No. You should obtain this link arm from the engine maker. Link arms vary by engine, and the engine maker offers the correct link arm for your particular brand and model.
I would like to upgrade the steering in my boat to Tilt Steering. What steps do I need to take?
First determine the brand of steering in your boat, then whether it is mechanical or hydraulic.
If you do not have Teleflex steering, either:
a. Replace the helm and cable (or hoses and cylinder) with a Teleflex system
or
b. Contact the steering maker for options. Tilt steering is not available for all systems.
If you have Teleflex rotary steering that was made after 1991 or rack steering made after
1996, you probably only need to purchase a Tilt helm and Tilt mechanism.
Determine which kind of Teleflex steering you have, then refer to the appropriate section of this catalog for Tilt Dash Module or Tilt Helm part number.
Tilt helms are offered for these Teleflex systems:
Safe-T “QC” (1968-present)
“The Rack” Rack & Pinion (1996-present)
Big-
NFB (1991-present)
HPS (2000-present)
SeaStar & SeaStar PRO (1991-present)
BayStar (2001-present)
NOTE: Some pre-1991 Hydraulic, pre-1991 Rotary and pre-1996 Rack systems may require
purchase of additional items and/or modification of the dash. Please see The Tilt Steering product pages, earlier in this catalog or contact Tech Support for assistance.
(Tilt helms have a special shaft to engage the Tilt mechanism; a non-Tilt helm cannot be used).
What size steering wheel should I use?
Teleflex does not make specific recommendations regarding steering wheel size, except that the wheel be at or below the maximum wheel diameter noted for each type of helm and that the wheel is sized/ located so it can be rotated freely by the boat operator through the entire steering arc with no obstruction or hindrance to movement. Wheels in the 14" diameter range are used widely with mechanical steering systems. Any size wheel may be used so long as the helm’s recommended maximum wheel diameter is not exceeded and steering effort is acceptable.
An “equidistant-spoke” steering wheel is suggested for hydraulic steering systems since a certain amount of oil bypass in the helm will gradually result in the wheel becoming “not centered” when the engine/drive/rudder is in the straight ahead position. Again, please note the maximum wheel diameter recommended for the helm.
NOTE: For mechanical steering, please note the maximum wheel diameter listed for each product earlier in Mechanical Steering section of this catalog. For Hydraulic systems, maximum wheel diameter is listed for each helm in the SeaStar/ BayStar/ Hynautic Helm Specifications chart in the Hydraulic Steering Tech Reference section.
I have a [model/year] boat and [model/year] engine. How do I hook up my steering cable to the engine?
There are many ways to connect a steering cable to an engine, drive unit or rudder. For outboards, the most common connection method is fastening the steering cable to the engine tilt tube and attaching a link arm from the engine’s “tiller arm” to the cross-hole in the steering cable’s “telescopic ram”. Generally, it is best to replace what was originally installed with similar components whenever possible. When that is not feasible in a mechanical steering installation, consider upgrading to SeaStar.
NOTE: For an overview of the basic types of steering connections and available components from Teleflex Marine, please see Steering Connection Kits Overview and Teleflex Steering connection kits, on previous pages.
I just bought a NFB (No-Feed Back) helm and cannot turn the shaft by hand. Why?
Without the steering wheel on the shaft, NFB helms are very difficult to turn by hand. This reason is the No-Feed Back clutch is always on “standby” to grip the helm shaft and hold it steady against torque feedback from the engine (which can make the steering wheel turn on non-No-Feedback systems). Once the helm is mounted in the dash and the steering wheel is properly attached, you will be able to turn the shaft easily. Follow the installation instructions completely.
NOTE: An overview of NFB can be found on page 23 in this catalog. Available NFB systems are shown after that.
I want to install an autopilot on a boat with cable steering. What do I need?
Teleflex does not make adapters or interface parts to connect an autopilot to mechanical cable
steering. This is left to the autopilot manufacturers. We do however strongly recommend that if you are installing an autopilot, upgrade your mechanical steering to a SeaStar hydraulic system. SeaStar is designed to interface with most autopilots and will give you superior all around performance.
NOTE: Autopilots cannot be used with any type of mechanical NFB (No FeedBack) steering. In that case, you MUST upgrade to SeaStar.
My steering cable is stiff / stuck and won’t move properly when I turn the wheel. What should I do?
The first step is to isolate the problem component(s) of the steering system. Several factors can lead to what feels like a “stiff” or “frozen” steering cable. If you do not have installation instructions for the system’s cable and helm, contact Teleflex (or other manufacturer, if appropriate) to obtain them. Also, have your engine and boat owner’s manuals handy.
The following troubleshooting sequence is suggested, during which the steering wheel should remain on the helm.
a. Is the steering cable in fact “stiff/frozen”?
Carefully disconnect the steering cable from the link arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm. (Refer to
installation instructions for that steering system and boat/engine owner's manual.) From the helm,
attempt to turn the steering wheel in both directions by hand to ensure that it moves freely through its prescribed steering arc. Also, check the hardware that connected the cable to the engine/drive/rudder for signs of binding, excessive free play, corrosion, deterioration and/or incorrect assembly. If everything does move freely and is in good working order, go to step b.
Steering cables cannot be repaired. If the steering cable is deteriorated, does not move or operates in any manner other than correctly, replace it with the correct one for the helm. If the cable for your helm is no longer available, replace the helm, bezel and cable with an appropriate Teleflex steering kit. If any cable connection part is deteriorated, too stiff or too loose, replace it with the correct type of component. Teleflex offers most types of cable connection hardware, except link arms which should be obtained from the engine manufacturer. Note that locking fasteners are used on connection components. Do not substitute non-locking fasteners
as this may lead to steering failure.
b. Is the helm “stiff/frozen”?
With the steering cable disconnected from the link arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm, disconnect
the cable from the helm. (Refer to installation instructions for that steering system.) From the helm, attempt to turn the steering wheel in both directions by hand to ensure that it moves
freely through its prescribed steering arc. If everything does move freely and is in good working order, go to step c. If the wheel does not move, replace the helm and bezel kit. If the helm and bezel are no longer available, replace helm, bezel and cable with an appropriate Teleflex steering kit.
c. Does the engine/drive/rudder pivot freely
through its entire arc from port to starboard?
With the steering cable disconnected from the link arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm, move the engine/ drive/rudder back and forth by hand to ensure that it moves freely through its prescribed steering arc. If it does not move or is extremely stiff, have proper maintenance or repairs done. If it does move freely, then check for obstructions that may have beenlimiting engine movement and/or revisit steps a-b.
NOTE: To ensure maximum performance and service life for your mechanical steering system, please read and follow the procedures outlined in FAQ #18 on the next page.
How do I remove the steering cable from the engine's tilt tube?
Disconnect the link arm that attaches the output end of the cable (telescopic ram) to the tiller arm
of the engine. Unscrew the large nut that attaches the cable to the tilt tube. If the cable was greased regularly, it should slide out through the tube. If the cable does not easily slide out, spray inside the tube with liberal amounts of penetrating oil. With care, use a small hammer and block of wood to gently tap the cable out (after the attachment nut has been removed from the tilt tube). Severe blows can damage not only the cable but the engine's tilt tube and other areas. This process requires care and patience. Do not try to drive the cable out by turning the steering wheel — this can damage the helm.
The steering cable is stuck in the engine's tilt tube. Now what should I do?
1. Sometimes a cable cannot be removed from an outboard engine tilt tube because the tube
has rusted on the inside. The following method is suggested for those cases in which “gentle
persuasion” won’t prevail.
a. Fully loosen the large hex nut on the starboard side of the engine that secures the steering
cable to the engine tilt tube.
b. Cut the cable’s output ram close to the tilt tube.
c. Drive the cable out of the engine tilt tube. You may not want to hammer or heat the tilt tube
in order to remove the jammed cable end. Heating and hammering may damage the engine mounting or pivot areas. You may have to replace the engine tilt tube. If so, consult your
engine manufacturer’s repair instructions.
2. When installing the new cable and tilt tube (if necessary), be sure the inside of the tilt tube is
clean and well lubricated. Lubricate the external parts of the steering cable’s telescopic (output) ram as well. Use a good quality, water resistant grease.
3. Be certain that all steering components are correctly assembled and in good working order.
These items cannot be repaired; if any are not in good working order, replace them.
4. Note that locking fasteners are used to secure the steering wheel, helm, steering cable and
link arm (drag link). Do not substitute non locking hardware; engine vibration can loosen
non-locking fasteners, causing loss of steering and personal injury and/or property damage.
5. Always remember: GREASE, GREASE, GREASE!
NOTE: To ensure maximum performance and service life for your mechanical steering system, please read and follow the procedures outlined in Maintenance Tips, later in these FAQs.
The steering cable’s “core wire” is broken. How can this be repaired?
Steering cables cannot be repaired. If a steering cable inner core wire separates or
breaks within the steering helm (gear box), the steering cable must be replaced with the correct one for the helm. The helm may need to be replaced as well. Cable breakage within the helm may have caused damage to the gears. A helm cannot be repaired and must be
replaced as a unit. If the correct replacement cable and/or helm is no longer available, replace the helm, bezel and cable with an appropriate Teleflex steering kit.
I've heard steering cables should be “maintained”. How exactly is this done?
We suggest the following periodic maintenance, at least twice a season:
Be certain the helm(s), cable(s), steering wheel and connection hardware are correctly
assembled and in proper working order. Check for signs of stiffness, binding, excessive free play and/or wear.
These items cannot be repaired; if any components are not in good working order, replace them. Disassembly of these items will void the warranty and can lead to steering failure. Always replace steering cables that are stiff in operation or have damage to the plastic jacket (outer casing).
Clean and lubricate the engine tilt tube or cable support tube and the steering cable telescopic
output ram as follows:
a. Remove the steering cable from the tilt tube.
b. Clean the tilt tube inside diameter thoroughly.
c. Remove corrosion in the tilt tube with a wire brush. Wipe until all loose material is removed.
d. Lubricate the tilt tube with a good water resistant grease.
e. Scour the steering cable telescopic ram with a brass wire brush and wipe until clean.
f. Lubricate the sliding parts of the telescopic ram with a high-quality, water resistant grease.
g. Reassemble, making sure all (correct) fasteners are tight and there is no binding or excessive
free play in moving parts.
Note where locking fasteners are used. Do not use non-locking fasteners; vibration can loosen them causing steering failure.
How do I install a steering wheel so it is centered when the engine is in the “straight ahead” position ?
There are several methods, depending on the type and model of steering:
For mechanical rack & pinion steering, attach the rack to the helm with the cable in mid-travel position and wheel centered.
For mechanical rotary steering helms, the starting steering wheel position when you first feed the cable into the helm de ter mines where it will be when the steering cable is “centered”. To center the steering wheel properly, we suggest orienting the wheel (depending on the rotary helm installed) in the positions depicted below. These starting positions assume the helm is mounted for an ordinary starboard cable exit.
You won’t have to worry about centering a steering wheel when installing hydraulic steering. Due to a small amount of “slip” or “drift” inherent in any hydraulic system, the steering wheel will not remain centered. Use of a wheel with equidistant spokes is the best solution for hydraulic steering since that type of wheel has no natural “up”, “down” or ”sideways” position.
How do I measure steering cables for a vessel with two steering stations?
The only cable steering system available for dual station boats is the Teleflex Big-T. One cable with two outer jacket (casing) sections is used to make the run from the engine/rudder to the lower station helm and then to the upper station helm.
NOTE: Please see the Big-T Dual Station product pages, earlier in this catalog. The cable for this system is special-order and non-returnable, so please take extra care when measuring.
Are there any “tricks” to installing a steering system? Is there anything I should definitely avoid doing?
If you have an outboard or stern drive with non power- assisted steering, we recommend you use
either a No FeedBack (NFB) mechanical or hydraulic(SeaStar/BayStar/Hynautic) system. For boats with power-assisted steering, use HPS (mechanical) or SeaStar. If you have or plan to install an autopilot, use SeaStar.
Be sure you have the correct cable for the helm on the boat (or vice versa). There are several kinds of cables and helms that are not interchangeable; this is true whether the system is rotary or rack & pinion. See the steering identification guides in the front of the Mechanical Steering section of the catalog and the Steering Options Based on Engine Type charts, pages 6-7.
Be sure you have measured properly and ordered the correct length of cable. (The #1 reason for cable returns is “wrong length ordered”.) See How to Measure, earlier in these FAQs and in more detail on page 26.
Follow the installation instructions for steering products completely. This will ensure the maximum
Performance and reliability of the product. If the instructions are missing, contact the manufacturer. Handle the products with care and do not expose them to impact or external stress. Allow for generous (large) cable bends, notably where the cable exits from the helm (or rack housing) and where the cable makes the bend to connect to the engine/drive/rudder. The tighter the bends, the stiffer the cable will tend to be in
Operation. Also, tight bends reduce cable life. Note; 8" is the minimum bend radius generally recommended for Teleflex steering cables. When using tie wraps to affix the cable along the gunwale area, allow some slack (do not cinch tight). Slack in the tie wraps allows for cable fl ex as it is actuated. This leads to smoother operation and longer life. Replace all worn steering connection/mounting components with correct replacement parts that are designed for the application. Do not substitute parts. If you think parts are missing from a kit, contact your distributor or the kit manufacturer for replacements. When installing the cable at the engine end, be sure to lubricate the telescopic ram (output end that slides in and out) with liberal amounts of a good, waterproof Lithium-based grease. This is ESPECIALLY critical if the steering cable is connected through the engine tilt tube as this area tends to get very rusty. Avoid the use of add-on grease fitting products designed to lubricate cables. These units can in Fact force old grease, dirt and rust onto the moving internal parts of a steering cable, shortening its life. There is no substitute for proper cable maintenance procedures, as noted earlier in these FAQs.
NOTE: The information in this section is a general guide. If you have questions about our Mechanical Steering, please contact Tech Support 610-495-7011
What autopilot pumps work within your steering systems?
We have no preference of a/p makes. Mostly, ALL will work without issue in our systems.
What, When and How do I perform maintenance on my steering system?
BEFORE EVERY TRIP
* Check fluid level in helm pump
* Check hoses to ensure that they are in good condition.
* Turn steering wheel hard over to hard over.
My BayStar system is really hard to turn, almost harder than cable steering...?
BayStar is rated to 150HP MAX (transom rating). Pontoon boats and Bass boats will likely be hard when using BayStar, as this is the taking the BayStar system to its maximum. SeaStar will make the system easier to turn, and, you have the option to add SeaStar Power Assist.
How much do your items cost?
You must contact your local Distributor for this information, we only sell through our Distributors.
I have been trying to bleed my Catamaran for serveral days now, I can't get the air out, what gives?
These are tricky. Please go to the download section of this site and download book No. 9.1. This is the only way to bleed the system.
What kind of maintenance should be performed on my steering system?
Not too much really. Check the fluid level, just as often as you check you cars. Most important, GREASE THE TILT TUBE on your outboard engines.
I called to leave a voice mail, but the message said that you will call back in 24 hours, I don't have that much time?
The 24 hour message is just to let customers know that during busy season, it may take that long. We try our hardest to get back within a couple hours, sit tight, we will call.
I just ordered a seal kit and tried to get a spanner wrench, the part you call for is not a real part #.
Any Spanner Pin wrench from any mfg will work, be sure that the wrench has the following specs. Adjustable from .75" to 3" Has a 1/8" Pin.
Fluid keeps coming out of my vent cap, what is going on?
Could be the o'ring is broken, or the plug has been over tightened and damaged. Send an email to us and we will send you a new one.
My older Hynautic or Capilano system is starting to get really hard to turn, what shall I check first?
We find that many of the times the steering cylinder is frozen in the cylinder body, to check this, remove the steering lines and try to push the cylinder, if you can't move it, replace it.
Does adjusting the torque tab on an outboard really make it steer easier to Port?
Actually YES. I have felt it myself. Of course if your prop is out of the water, so will the tab. Stiff steering will happen if the prop is not totally submerged under water.
Can I add a second steering station to my BayStar steering system?
No. BayStar is a single engine single station steering system.
Who can rebuild my Hynautic Steering system products?
In the East Phone
Fluid Tec - 904-384-9659 or
Charman Ent - 800-247-6324
In the West Phone
Seattle Marine - 800-426-2783
or any Qualified Marine Mechanic.
Who can rebuild my SeaStar Steering parts?
Florida Rigging and Hydraulics at
561-863-7444.
Charman Ent. temporarily off line (Indiana)
Fluid Tech. 904-384-9659 (N. Florida)
Boatech 310-519-1114 (Southern Cali)
or any Qualified Marine Mechanic.
I want to repair my Hydraulic Steering product, does the factory do repairs?
In most cases YES. We are the factory so a turn around time cannot be guarenteed. Please see next question for other repair partners.
Can I use my master spoke or centered steering wheel with a SeaStar system?
Due to a small amount of internal hydraulic slip these style steering wheels should not be used. For best results use an equal distance wheel.
Outboard hose is too long, can I cut it down?
NO! You CANNOT cut SeaStar outboard hoses. Take up the slack under the dash, or anywhere else, once that hose is cut, it is garbage.
Who can work on my Hydraulic Steering?
ALL work regarding your steering system should be done by a Qualified Marine Mechanic.
What is that clear tube that goes from bleeder to bleeder on my steering cylinder?
That is a tool for bleeding. Simply put one end on the bleeder that you are working on, and the other end in a clean container.
Can I mix and Match Hynautic with SeaStar steering systems?
In most cases you can, please contact us via e-mail with what you are looking to do, and we can assist you with all the details.
I just installed the new BayStar steering system and it seems heavier to steer than a SeaStar, is this normal?
If you know that it has been bled good, and there is no other restriction then this is normal. BayStar is a smaller version of the SeaStar and will feel slightly heavier to steer.
How do I know I have all the air out of my system?
Refer to your owners manual. Having the correct amount of wheel turns hard over to hard over is a good sign the system is free of air.
Where is the part number?
Good question! If you need to contact us and see no numbers of any kind, please have as many measurments ready for when we ask. Any number in the system will help us help you.
How often should I check my fluid?
I like to say ALWAYS, it is simple to check, and it is your steering. The best time is as soon as you step on board BEFORE touching the steering wheel. Fill if needed.
I'm leaking fluid out of my shaft seal on my helm pump, can I change this myself?
It is fairly easy to replace. Confirm the year of your pump, and go to the Replacement parts page, there you will find the proper seal kit. This can be changed in minutes.
Is SeaStar taking care of Hynautic Hydraulic Engine Controls?
Teleflex Canada (us) have assumed support of the Hynautic Hydraulic Controls. Please direct your questions to us.
Can I get a Tilt helm in my outboard steering kit?
At this time, no. We only offer the Outboard Pro and Standard kits with the Standard front mounting helm, front mount pivot cylinder, two lengths of hose and two bottles of SeaStar Steering fluid.
My BayStar Steering system tubing says rated for 140HP, but my engine is 150HP, can I use this hose?
Yes. The hose will work with the BayStar 150HP (total) system.
What's the best way for you to help me?
The best way is via e-mail from this site, we ask that if you are plannning on e-mailing us through this site, please provide all(if any) part numbers off of your system, this saves time.
I heard that SeaStar is now taking care of Hynautic Hydraulic Steering, is this true?
Yes. We here at SeaStar are doing or best to give ALL of the Hynautic customers the same support we give SeaStar customers, this web site will be updated with Hynautic information shortly.
Where can I find an owners manual for my Hydraulic Steering System?
You can locate and print off you owners manual on this site by going to the site map and locating the DOWNLOADABLE PDF files.
My outboard steering is fine at the dock but becomes hard underway. Is this normal?
Adjust Torque Tab on motor to offset prop torque. Adjust trim tabs so that boat runs level. Trim out your engine. Eliminate air by purging the system.
My Hydraulic Steering is difficult in both directions. What can I do to rectify this?
1) Steering wheel is too small. 2) Helm pump and cylinder combination do not provide adequate mechanical advantage. 3) Could be a restriction in one or both of the Hydraulic hoses.
I have a boat fitted with Sytten Steering. Can I get a seal kit for the Helm Pump and a mounting foot/seal kit for the BA135-7BJ cylinder.
The Sytten System was obsoleted in 1984. We no longer have "any" parts available. Your Helm Pump can be replaced with HH5271 & HA5418. The cylinder should be replaced with HC5313 & HA5425.
Can I substitute Transmission Fluid (ATF) for the recommended SeaStar Fluid?
In Emergencies only. ATF will void the warranty and decrease the efficiency of the steering system. SeaStar Steering Fluid can be replaced by any Hydraulic fluid with Mil Spec H5606.
Where can I purchase SeaStar Product and parts?
Go to our 'Find a Dealer' area.
What is the rating for a Baystar steering system?
150HP maximum rated outboard engine,
150HP maximum rated boat, single engine,
150 total HP, multiple engine
I have a front mount hydraulic outboard cylinder part # HC5340-42. It is about 10 years old and beginning to leak. Should I replace the cylinder or can I buy a seal kit?
The seal kit is HS5157 (includes wrench). Prior to replacing the seals, check the shaft for nic's, scratches or burrs. If an imperfection is discovered, please address prior to replacing seals.
If air is present in a hydraulic system, what symptoms will the system exhibit ?
System will feel soft and mushy,
System will feel unresponsive,
System will feel jerky
In a single engine application consisting of a Seastar 1.7 displacement helm and an HC5345 cylinder with a total displacement volume of 8.3 cubic inches, how many turns lock to lock will the system have?
4.9 turns lock to lock
Power Assist - My "OUTBOARD" boat, with triple engines is very hard to steer, what can I do?
Power Assist is your best option. Engines have become much heavier, have a much higher output and much more torque than previous, SeaStar Power Assist will make your steering very easy to turn, regardless of the horse power.
Power Assist - My "INBOARD" boat is very hard to turn at higher speeds, will the SeaStar Power Assist cure this?
In short "Maybe". Your steering system may be undersized, this requires much more effort to turn the wheel. SeaStar Power Assist will "help", however if the cylinder is undersized your best option may be to increase the size of the cylinder providing more "force" to move the rudder(s) over
Power Assist - I just saw a new product called DC Power...what is that?
This is the newest addition to the Teleflex family. This DC Power will replace the conventional, engine driven power steering that you see on large boats. Contact Teleflex for more information
Power Assist - I keep blowing fuses in my SeaStar Power Assist System, what can I do to cure this?
Part # HA1206 can be ordered to cure this. This is a 50A, MAXI fuse. NOTE: All current Power Assist Units utilize this same, MAXI fuse
Cylinders -What are the new -3 cylinders all about?
The -3 cylinders mount the exact same as the older ones, have the same volume and output. We have gone to a fully anodized aluminum parts, and to ORB hose fittings in the cylinder body.
Cylinders - I keep wearing out my seals, or my spare parts?
Seals will wear over time, a damaged shaft will not allow a new seal to seal. If you have a part that is wearing out over and over again, please contact us as there is likely an underlying issue that is leading to this problem
Cylinders - I just re-rigged with new engine(s), can I re-use my old cylinder? If so, what is the part number for the extension plates?
Teleflex does NOT make engine extension plates for any engine newer than a 2004. If your current cylinder is an HC5340, HC5340-42 or an HC5342, you will need to update the steering cylinder and tiebar with current models. Please see "Outboard Section"
Cylinders - When should I use the Outboard Tournament Cylinders?
If your boat is driven in an aggressive manor, used in tournaments, then you should be using the tournament cylinders. Please go to the SeaStar Outboard section for further information
Cylinders - I need to convert my outboard pivot cylinder into a different model, how do I do this?
This is not something that you want to do yourself. Please contact the following company for assistance with this job.
Fluid Tec - 904-384-9659.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF
Cylinders - What causes the outboard front mount cylinder seals to leak?
I find that almost all the time, the support rod is ready to seize up in the tilt tube, because someone has failed to clean and grease it. Please do this at least ONCE a year, it WILL save you money.
Cylinders - I read that there is a new PRO cylinder being offered by SeaStar? What is this?
You are right. SeaStar PRO cylinder has better seals and bushings to reduce wear caused by the higher horsepower engines. No worries, the old cylinder is still adequate.
Cylinders - I have a brand new HC5345 but I need a different cylinder for my engine, what do I do?
Please contact us via e-mail to find out your options. Do not try to make the cylinder fit.
Cylinders - Can I use power purge jr. with dual cylinders?
Yes. you will need to purchase kit #HA5461. It comes complete with instructions.
Helms - I have an older Traditional Style Tilt helm, I see that this has been replaced?
This is correct. We have recently launched the new "Classic Tilt", and this helm will replace ALL Traditional Tilt helms. Your hoses and cylinder will work just fine. The new Classic Tilts have a different style (in regards to cosmetics), and also comes with the newly designed Tilt Mechanism (much better than the previous).
Helms - What is the replacement part number for the Tilt Mechanism only?
We offer two models, as follows; * HA6123 for sport tilt helms (soft rubber boot) * HA6523 for Traditional and Classic Tilt (hard plastic covers).
Helms - I have notice that the SeaStar helm cover looks different than the old helms..?
This is the new cover for the SeaStar helm pump. Only the cover has changed, you will still enjoy the easy, most reliable steering on the market today. YES - it will work with older helms as well.
Helms - I see that the BayStar helm that I just purchase is metal and not a composite like my older one.....why did you do that?
When it came time to re-tool for this product, Teleflex made several updates and improvements to the BayStar helm, one of which was the metal cover. This will work with all older parts on board your boat. NOTE: You will need to drill out 4 mounting holes for the new helm (the older one had 3).
Helms - I have an older model pump and want to install a new SeaStar Tilt helm, what adapters will I need?
Unfortunately you cannot retrofit a tilt helm into the old cut out without filling in the hole in your dash and re drilling.
Helms - When the weather is sunny and hot Oil leaks out of my fill and vent cap. What is the Cause?
Thermal Expansion. As the temperature increases, air in the reservoir expands forcing oil to leak out of the vent cap. Set oil level to 1/4" below threads of filler cap.
Helms - How can someone identify the displacement rating of a Seastar/Baystar hydraulic helm?
Check the decal on the helm, Check the stamping on the end of the shaft,
Calculate your displacement from your # of turns lock to lock.
Helms - What is the displacement of a Seastar 1.7 hydraulic helm (HH5271)?
1.7 cubic inches per revolution.
How do I adjust the selector switch on my tachometer?
See the Tachometer application guide in technical support. On the rear of the tachometer the black rotary selector switch is placed in the 4C, 6C, or 8C position respective of how many cylinders there are in your Stern Drive or Inboard engine.
Place the selector switch in positions 2P, 3P, 4P, 5P, or 6P for Outboard engines listed in the Technical Support, Tachometer Selection, (Outboard Engine with Alternator.)
Universal Tachometers with this type of labeling of the selector switch are capable of operating on both stern drive/inboards (4 cycle) and outboard engines.
Certain Chrysler and most pre 1993 Force outboards require a special tachometer that will operate correctly for the 20 pole alternator on those engines.
What engine temperature gauge do I use on my outboard?
Teleflex has replaced all of its 50-200 degree O/B temperature kits with a more generic kit that can be used on all outboards having a 12-volt battery. These new kits cover a temperature range of 80-220 degrees. The gauge reads C to H with graduated marks in between for reference. The kit comes complete with gauge, proper sender, brackets, and instruction sheet that adapt it to almost any outboard engine.
For replacement parts, sender IA96035 must be used with a 50-200 degree gauge. Sender 52320S010 must be used with a C-H gauge. If an IA96035 sender is used with a C-H gauge, the gauge will read at the 200-degree area very quickly.
The 120-240 degree stern drive temperature gauge can be used but it will register temperatures in the low temperature area (on most engines) when engine operates normally. Sender 52320S010 must be used. If sender requires a bracket for installation, use bracket IA55009.
My engine synchronizer gauge pointer is pegged to one side of gauge?
First, check all the connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Of the two main components of the synchronizer, the module (black 5" disc) usually fails before the dash mounted gauge. It has all the electronics and is more susceptible to electronic abnormalities. If the dash gauge pegs to one side the fault is almost always the module. The module part number is located on the under side of the module.
Why does the Trim Gauge not work on my engine?
Trim gauges are made for specific trim sender resistances. The senders are only made and sold by the engine manufacturer dealers. In many cases the sender has failed but the gauge is the first place the fault is seen. The sender can be checked for the proper resistance if incorrect responses are seen on the gauge. The trim gauge must also be matched to the sender for a correct response.
Force ('95 and on), Mariner, Mercury, Mercruiser, OMC Cobra (gray):
10 ohm Down, 167 ohm Up
OMC Stern Drives (white) and Sea Drive:
10 ohm Down, 88 ohm Up
Johnson/Evinrude Outboard:
88 ohm Down 1 ohm Up
Removed OMC & Sea Drive
Suzuki 4-stroke Outboards (2002)
88 ohm Down 2.5 ohm Up
Yamaha Outboard:
Pre 2001 - 110 ohm Down, 410 ohm Up
2001 ("z" in engine number) - 10 ohm Down, 167 ohm Up
OMC/Volvo combination stern drive, DP, SX:
10 ohm Down 167 ohm Up
NOTE: Honda Outboards & Suzuki 2-stroke Outboards do not use a resistive type sender.
Teleflex does not offer trim gauges for Force, (pre-'95), Pre 1992 Suzuki, Nissan or Tohatsu engines.
The trim gauge can be tested in the same manner as the fuel gauge. Turn the ignition on. Remove the sender wire from back of gauge. Pointer must go above UP (below DOWN for 88-1 ohm gauge). Next, connect the gauge sender terminal to ground. The pointer must go below DOWN (above UP for 88-1 ohm gauge). If the pointer moves to both UP and DOWN the gauge is functional.
What water pressure gauge is correct for my engine?
Water pressure is monitored because proper pressure means adequate water flow resulting in acceptable operating temperatures. The correct pressure varies with each engine and the engine manufacturer should be contacted when there is a question. Most engines can be covered by a 0-30 PSI range (a few newer outboard engines require a 0.48 PSI kit). Yamaha engines require a 0-40 PSI kit as well as bushing adaptor 61886P.
The pressure gauge adapts to the engine in various ways. Teleflex provides a kit that includes the gauge and all necessary fittings to adapt to most U.S. built engines and some imported engines. Access to water pressure may be at the overboard discharge hose, a water by-pass hose, or a fitting directly into the cylinder head cover (some offshore engines require a metric threaded fitting that Teleflex does not supply and therefore does not recommend the kit in these applications. Teleflex does have available bushing 61886P for Yamaha). The kit may have more fittings than are necessary for a particular application. However, the extra parts may come in handy for some other job.
Water pressure kits are not tested for coolant systems on inboard or stern drive engines.
The application chart for water pressure kits can be found in Tech Support, Outboard Water Pressure Kit Section.
Do I need a voltmeter or an ammeter?
In years gone by most inboards and stern drives were equipped with an ammeter, usually of 40-ampere range. Today almost all manufacturers have redesigned for voltmeters. There are a number of reasons for this change. Voltmeters tell more about the electrical system than ammeters. Ammeters tell if the alternator is or is not charging the battery enough to overcome the boat's drain on the battery. If properly wired it may also tell if the battery is being drained with the motor off. However, this drain can be so low that the ammeter will not register or alert the operator to the drain.
A voltmeter can provide the operator more information. Condition of the battery at idle or with the engine off, is the battery being charged when the engine is running above idle, is the voltage regulator set correctly.
Additionally, the voltmeter is easy to wire. Install in dash, connect I to ignition switch or any good-switched positive wire from the battery, and connect G to common ground. The voltmeter is in operation giving information on the electrical system. Wire size can be 14 to 18 gage. An ammeter requires 10 gage or heavier wire to be brought to the dash from specific locations on the battery or engine.
A voltmeter cannot use the wires an ammeter used. If substituting a voltmeter, contact Teleflex Marine concerning wiring changes
I measured the temperature sender hole in the water jacket and when I got that size sender it was way too big.
National Pipe Thread (NPT) sizes used on temperature and pressure senders are not the same as measuring the hole or sender with a tape or ruler. NPT threads are tapered so they tighten and seal as they are threaded into the hole. The way NPT threads are measured comes from the plumbing industry. For example, a steel pipe, hollow on the inside, has a 1/2" inside diameter. It has a wall thickness around that diameter. A tapered thread is cut on the outside of the pipe wall at the end of the pipe. This thread is called a 1/2" -14 NPT because the inside of a theoretical pipe is 1/2" inch in diameter and there are 14 threads to an inch of length. Even though senders have no inside diameter their threads are measured the same way. If unsure about the size of the thread, inexpensive pipe plugs from the hardware store can be tried for fit. Refer to Tech Support, Sender Thread Sizes.
Why does the Older Force outboard engine require a special tachometer?
Almost all outboard engines that have an alternator can be monitored by our Universal Outboard Tachometer. That is because most outboard alternators have magnetic pole ranges from 4 to 12 poles. The tachometer is adjustable to those ranges. However, some late model Chrysler outboards and most pre 1993 Force outboards have Prestolite 20 pole alternators. The Universal tachometer is not adjustable for that number of magnetic poles. To expand the existing Universal tachometer from 4 to 20 pole would jeopardize the electronic noise filtering. Therefore, a tachometer that handles only the 20-pole alternator was created. The Teleflex catalog and brochures specify this tachometer, P/N 53743P. Most Force engines built after 1992 have more standard 12 pole alternators and can be monitored by the Universal Outboard Tachometer. If in doubt on the number of poles in a Force alternator consult our tachometer application guide, a Force dealer, or Mercury (the Force parent) customer service ( 920-929-5040 ).
I can't locate the gauge anywhere that I need to replace.
Teleflex manufacturers many lines of instruments and is constantly introducing new designs to meet the OEM's requirements. To make room for the new, some of the old must be discontinued. In most cases Teleflex does offer a replacement gauge to monitor the function, although styling may be different. If you know the part number of the old gauge, call us for availability.
I am having difficulty with my fuel gauge.
The Teleflex fuel gauge and the level sender are designed to operate on 240 ohms (empty) and 33 ohms (full). Most other manufacturers build a marine fuel level system of the same resistance as gauges and senders may be mixed at the boat builder level.
There are only three components to the system-gauge, level sender, and the connecting sender wire. The sender wire should be inspected for breaks in the copper or corroded connection to the terminals.
The fuel gauge can be inspected in the following manner. Turn the ignition on. Remove the sender wire from back of gauge. Pointer must go below the empty mark. Next, connect the gauge sender terminal to ground. The pointer must go above the full mark. If the pointer moves past both E and F, the gauge is functional.
To check the fuel level sender remove wires from sender terminal. Connect volt/ohmmeter to two sender terminals (digital ohmmeter will tend to be jumpy). Ohmmeter should read approximately:
240 ohms @ empty
100 ohms @ 1/2 and
33 ohms @ full.
If the sender is not sized properly for the tank, errors in gauge reading can also occur.
Bouncing, Erratic Tachometers.
As analog tachometers age they sometimes begin to behave unpredictably and do not always display the correct RPM. Sometimes tapping on the glass brings the tachometer back to the correct reading…temporarily.
This abnormality may be caused by a thin film that grows between the Selector Switch contact and the circuit on the printed board. This film tends to intermittently insulate the two causing the strange readings.
To remedy this, simply rotate the switch about 6 times, resetting the switch to its original position. This should eliminate the film build up and all return to normal.
Erratic operation can also be the result of old age or a power surge (lightning for example) acting on the internal electronic components. This you can not remedy and the tachometer must be replaced.
I have an older boat. The marina where I fill up now sells fuel with 10% ethanol. Will this cause any problems with my fuel lines?
Ethanol can cause many problems with fuel tanks and filters. The good news is if your boat was built after 1984 it is most likely okay. In 1984, the marine industry started using hoses built to SAE J1527 specifications. The hoses will be labeled with the SAE J1527 brand. Ethanol enhanced fuel will not cause premature failure. If the fuel line is not SAE J1527 you should replace the fuel lines as soon as possible with Shields hose.
I have to replace the sanitation hose from my head to my holding tank, which hose should I use?
That all depends on how your boats’ plumbing is set up and what type of head you are using. If your discharge hose is short, less than 8-10’ and self-draining the Shieldsvac XHD Series 148 hose will work well. For added protection you can upgrade to the Shields Super PVC sanitation hose Series 144. The Series 144 contains a chemical that inhibits the growth of odor causing bacteria and algae.
If the discharge hose is longer or has some areas where it is not self-draining we suggest you use a rubber sanitation hose like our Series 101. Care should be taken to make sure the hose is periodically flushed to prevent waste from accumulating and building up odors.
The ultimate marine sanitation hose is Shields Poly X Series 105 sanitation hose. The Poly X features a polyurethane cover to create an impenetrable barrier to waste odors.
I am repowering my boat and will need new wet exhaust hoses. What hose should I use
It is important in marine wet exhaust application that you look for SAE J2006 rated hose. That means the hose is specifically designed for marine wet exhaust. In most boats, black high temperature exhaust works well. Some boats, particularly high performance or large diesel boats will require blue silicone exhaust very high temperature wet exhaust hose.
If the sections you need are short (less than 3x the hose ID) and straight, the best hose to use is a softwall hose Shields Marine Exhaust Series 200 (high temp), or Shields Nautiflex Series 202 (very high temp).
For longer lengths or lengths that require a bend use Shieldsflex II wire reinforced wet exhaust Series 250 (high temp). If the bend is more severe use Shieldsaust C corrugated wet exhaust Series 252 (high temp). Nautiflex corrugated wet exhaust Series 262 (very high temp) is also available for high temperature applications.
How can I tell if I need to purchase a remanufactured carburetor vs. installing a rebuild kit?
Generally speaking, a rebuild kit is only good on a unit with minimal wear (low hours of operation) and no obvious sign of corrosion. If your unit exhibits either of these conditions, your better off purchasing or installing a quality remanufactured unit.
How can I prolong the usable life of my current or recently purchased remanufactured carburetor?
Proper fuel maintenance is the key to a long carburetor service life. Make sure all filters are changed at recommend service intervals, quality fuel is utilized and if the boat is to be stored for extended periods of time use a quality fuel stabilizer.
What information do I need to find the proper carburetor rebuild kit for my application?
Most carburetors have either a metal tag on the front of the carburetor or a manufacturer’s production stamp on the body of the carburetor. Either of these locations should provide the numbers needed to procure the correct rebuild kit. If these numbers cannot be located or the tag is missing, the Sierra catalog can cross most make and model information to the correct kit.
What is the difference between an automotive and marine carburetor?
Although physically similar both carburetors are designed specifically for their environment. In the case of the marine carburetor, special care is taken to make sure no fuel leaks into the bilge. Special overflow channels on the vent tube, channeling on the throttle shafts, and a fuel pump overflow are all important in the marinization of the marine carburetor.
My engine is still under the original factory warranty, will using Sierra oil or lubes void my factory warranty?
No, your factory warranty will still remain in effect. This is a common misconception that using non-engine manufacturer oils, lubes or other engine and drive parts will void the factory warranty. Sierra oils and lubricants meet or exceed the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) standards that all of the engine factory brand oils currently meet. Sierra oils meet the stringent TC-W3 and FC-W rating for 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines and Sierra offers an extensive selection of oils and lubes to exactly match the engine manufacturer’s lubrication requirements.
I want to “top off” my lower unit gear housing with Sierra Synthetic Blend Hi-Performance lubricant. Will it be compatible with the engine manufacturer lube currently in the housing?
It depends. Sierra blends all of their gear lubes to meet or exceed the engine manufacturer specification. However, you should never mix organic, semi-synthetic or full synthetic gear lubes. If you are 100% certain that the gear lube in the lower unit is also a semi-synthetic, then yes you can just “top off”. However, it is always best to drain and then replace the old gear lubricant with fresh lube. In most cases changing lower unit lube is easily done by the boat owner and Sierra also offers an assortment of gear lube pumps and adaptors to make the job easy and hassle free. Remember to replace the gaskets or o-rings on your drain and vent screws and inspect the old lubricant for metal chips and water (usually a milky or streaked appearance to the lube) that may indicate a problem in the lower unit. While you are down there, pull your prop and inspect the prop shaft for fishing line that can cut a seal and apply Sierra spline grease (18-9200) to the propshaft to prevent corrosion.
What is the Sierra Warranty?
Sierra warranties all their parts to be free of defects for the life of the part. If a Sierra product fails due to a manufacturing defect during the normal life of the part, Sierra will pay for replacement of the defective part, any incidental damage caused by the defective part, plus any haul out or towing involved. The warranty does not cover failures due to abuse, misuse or modifications to the part. Normal life of the part is considered standard accepted interval before replacement or inspection is required. Example, oil and fuel filters are to be changed at service hour intervals or yearly whichever comes first, so Sierra filters are warranted at these same intervals. You can’t just spin on a filter and never replace it again. Always follow the recommended maintenance and service intervals for your particular engine as laid out by the manufacturer.
Are Sierra parts as good as engine manufacturer parts?
Simply put, YES. Many Sierra parts are made in the same plants and from the same suppliers as the original engine manufacturers. Sierra engineers their parts to meet or exceed the factory original part and all Sierra parts are backed by the Sierra Limited Lifetime Product Warranty.
My dealer says he can not order Sierra parts and will only install engine manufacturer parts. Are Sierra parts hard to find? Do I have a choice?
Sierra parts can be ordered worldwide by virtually any service dealer. Sierra does not sell direct, but utilizes a worldwide network of marine distributors committed to stocking Sierra parts. Almost every dealer already purchases from these distributors for many of their non engine related marine parts and accessories (ski’s, life vests, boat cleaning supplies, etc.) so ordering Sierra parts in no more difficult for a dealer than their normal ordering procedure. Finally, yes you do have a choice. You can specify that if a Sierra Limited Lifetime Warranty replacement part is available for your engine that your servicing dealer utilizes those parts. Sierra also lists dealers across the North America who are part of the Teleflex Dealer Network just click the “find a dealer” link.
Who is Sierra? I have heard the name, but I am not overly familiar with what they do.
Sierra is the engine parts aftermarket division of Teleflex Marine. Sierra has manufactured and distributed marine engine and drive parts for over 40 years. Many boaters are familiar with the name Teleflex and the many products from steering systems, remote controls and gauges that Teleflex produces. Teleflex is a multi-billion dollar worldwide leader in the service industry with business units in the commercial (marine & heavy equipment), medical and aerospace industries. Sierra is located in Litchfield, Illinois just north of St. Louis and also has a European distribution center in Holland. Bottom line, Sierra is the largest supplier of aftermarket engine parts in the world, and Sierra parts are backed by the best warranty of any engine part, OEM or aftermarket in the world.
If I do have a problem, do I have to take my boat back to my original servicing dealer?
No, Sierra parts are available worldwide and dealers worldwide have access to the Sierra distribution system. If possible because of their familiarity with your boat you should always make your servicing dealer your first choice when any problems occur. However, if this is not possible you can take your boat to virtually any marine service center and have the work performed. The service center should contact our technical service department at (800) 648-3976 for the proper procedures and authorization in processing a warranty prior to starting the service. Sierra is committed to customer satisfaction and our top priority is keeping the boater on the water, however, Sierra has no control over service center repair backlogs and any repair is subject to the servicing centers normal turn around time for engine service.
I have an older boat. The marina where I fill up now sells fuel with 10% ethanol. Will this cause any problems with my fuel lines?
Ethanol can cause many problems with fuel tanks and filters. The good news is if your boat was built after 1984 it is most likely okay. In 1984, the marine industry started using hoses built to SAE J1527 specifications. The hoses will be labeled with the SAE J1527 brand. Ethanol enhanced fuel will not cause premature failure. If the fuel line is not SAE J1527 you should replace the fuel lines as soon as possible with Shields hose
I have to replace the sanitation hose from my head to my holding tank, which hose should I use?
That all depends on how your boats’ plumbing is set up and what type of head you are using. If your discharge hose is short, less than 8-10’ and self-draining the Shieldsvac XHD Series 148 hose will work well. For added protection you can upgrade to the Shields Super PVC sanitation hose Series 144. The Series 144 contains a chemical that inhibits the growth of odor causing bacteria and algae.
If the discharge hose is longer or has some areas where it is not self-draining we suggest you use a rubber sanitation hose like our Series 101. Care should be taken to make sure the hose is periodically flushed to prevent waste from accumulating and building up odors.
The ultimate marine sanitation hose is Shields Poly X Series 105 sanitation hose. The Poly X features a polyurethane cover to create an impenetrable barrier to waste odors.
I am repowering my boat and will need new wet exhaust hoses. What hose should I use
It is important in marine wet exhaust application that you look for SAE J2006 rated hose. That means the hose is specifically designed for marine wet exhaust. In most boats, black high temperature exhaust works well. Some boats, particularly high performance or large diesel boats will require blue silicone exhaust very high temperature wet exhaust hose.
If the sections you need are short (less than 3x the hose ID) and straight, the best hose to use is a softwall hose Shields Marine Exhaust Series 200 (high temp), or Shields Nautiflex Series 202 (very high temp).
For longer lengths or lengths that require a bend use Shieldsflex II wire reinforced wet exhaust Series 250 (high temp). If the bend is more severe use Shieldsaust C corrugated wet exhaust Series 252 (high temp). Nautiflex corrugated wet exhaust Series 262 (very high temp) is also available for high temperature applications.
I lost my keys to the ignition on my boat. What can I do?
Sierra offers replacement keys for as little as $5.00 per set. At the top of the switch on the face you will see a letter printed. If your switch has a rubber boot nut you will need to remove it to see the letter. Call Sierra Technical Service at 800-648-3976 with that letter code and we can send you a brand new set of keys.
The console on my boat gets very wet when running in rough water. Even though I have a rubber boot nut, water has intruded and corroded my terminals. Does Sierra have a solution?
No, the light module can be replaced without replacing the switch. The switch has to be removed from the panel. Remove the old module and replace it with a new one. Retail price for the module is only $7.99. Call Sierra Technical Service at 800-648-3976 for more information.
I have a boat with several Sierra RotoSwitches installed in the panel. The switches still work, but the lights no longer function. Do I have to replace the entire switch?
No, the light module can be replaced without replacing the switch. The switch has to be removed from the panel. Remove the old module and replace it with a new one. Retail price for the module is only $7.99. Call Sierra Technical Service at 800-648-3976 for more information.
I am installing a new piece of electronic equipment and need to install a fuse in the circuit. I am concerned as the area where the fuse needs to go might get wet. Does Sierra have a solution?
Yes, Sierra offers a waterproof fuse holder P/N FS35870. The fuse holder uses automotive style blade fuses (ATO).
